Postcards from the Road. Vol #1

Walking underneath the Radar.

This edition is a little different from the last few.

I thought it might be time to give you something that can be read in a few minutes rather than fifteen.

Just a handful of postcards from the road.

As many of you know, there was a major earthquake in Kumamoto last week. We were in Uchiko when we felt a few small shakes ourselves.

Our thoughts go out to everyone in Kumamoto, especially with the summer heat making recovery even harder. I hope the restoration efforts go as smoothly as they can.

The heat has finally forced us to change tactics.

Walking long distances through suburban sprawl and endless highways in 38°C heat just isn’t working anymore. There are no awards for being tough and stupid (except for the Tough and Stupid Award). No one needs to end up in hospital trying to prove a point.

So we’ve decided to save our legs for the beautiful sections of the Henro and catch buses or trains through the less interesting stretches.

It also means we’ll finish sooner rather than later. After more than two months on the road, I’m looking forward to getting home, seeing my family and sleeping in my own bed again.

I also miss my mother-in-law’s cooking. At this point she’s simply Obāchan
(Grandma in Japanese).

When I get home I’m going to ask her to make Japanese-style hamburg steaks. At 85, she still cooks like an absolute champion.

Uchiko is an awesome little town.

It’s one of those places where, for about twenty-four hours, you convince yourself you could happily live there.

Travelling has a habit of doing that.

Whilst there I stumbled across the candle man. He makes traditional Japanese candles using a wax tree. They don’t smoke nor do they drip wax. There’s no paraffin involved. And he sells them by how many hours they burn... 1.5 hour candles, 3 hours, 5 hours … I never knew I was a candle fan. Big ups to the candle man.

Summertime also means it’s school holidays and, as a foreigner in Japan, that means kids interviewing you in English on the street for their summer school projects.

I’m always happy to do it.

Actually… it’s one of the coolest parts of travelling through small-town Japan

Catching trains and buses isn’t actually that different from walking.

There’s still plenty of planning—probably more. Lots of Google Maps, Japanese websites and things that Google Maps doesn’t show. Plenty of strategy meetings over late-afternoon beers while trying to work out what’s happening tomorrow… and then trying not to forget what we decided.

Convenience stores continue to save us from the relentless heat.

Current debate: Best ice bar in Japan.

I’m firmly on Team Yuzu.

Cam insists the Japanese Melon Fruit Bar is superior.

He’s wrong.

A lot of the little minpaku (home-stays) have closed for August, so we’ve been spending more nights in cheap business hotels followed by Izakaya dinners.

Breakfast has become whatever the nearest convenience store happens to be selling that morning. Honestly, it’s usually better than the business hotel buffet.

Usually a sandwich of some kind before we hit the road early.

Kissaten (old-school Japanese coffee shops) are reserved for the rare day off.

Soon we’ll cross into Kagawa.

Which means one thing.

Udon breakfasts.

To survive the heat, I keep reminding myself that we’ve been…

Walking …… Underneath the Radar.

Did you know Underworld wrote that song?

It was a huge hit in Oz back in the day. Apparently it never really took off in the US.

Still an absolute banging tune.

We’ve still got a few weeks left on the circuit, and two side quests planned before we finally reach Temple 88.

Stay tuned.

Henro out.

See you later.… See you later…

Postcards from the Road. Vol#1

Published: Day 61 of the Pilgrimage — August 7th

Temples visited: 64/ 88
Distance walked: 1092km / 1,300km (I don’t believe this number anymore)
Distance bused and trained: About 115km
Current location: Saijo, Ehime Prefecture.
Kilograms of enlightenment achieved: 5 plus, no scales.
Onigiri eaten: too many - lost count
Beers drunk: Less than Pocari sweats drunk ... You can influence this number with the button below.
Favourite Drink: Water … and beer... and sake… and Pocari sweat ion water.
Granola bars reluctantly consumed: So sick of Granola bars
Blisters acquired: only 5!
Shoes - on my 3rd pair.

Check out all the dispatches from the Henro Journey so far

Dispatch #1 - Coca-Cola, Lemon Soda and the 27 Bears.
Dispatch #2 -Pocari Sweat, Purple Worms and Pirates
Dispatch #3 - Be Water
Dispatch #4 - The Fellowship of the Henro
Dispatch #5 Side Quests